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Case study of

#00049 Fund collection through cost-indexed EPR support, decoupled from the resale price

Hautes-Pyrénées (Vic-en-Bigorre), France

#00044

PartialRegion

Implementer

Le Relais / Récup Action (Vic-en-Bigorre)

Timeline

Since Jul 15, 2025

Location

Hautes-Pyrénées (Vic-en-Bigorre), France43.1438, 0.1587

Description

On 15 July 2025 Le Relais suspended collection across its national network of roughly 22,000 containers — about 70% of France's used-clothing collection — in a funding standoff with the eco-organisme Refashion. The Hautes-Pyrénées was one of the territories that went dark that day, with the Le Relais site at Vic-en-Bigorre and its local partner Récup Action directly affected.

Refashion was paying €156/tonne while Le Relais put its real net treatment cost at €304/tonne; an emergency offer of €192/tonne was rejected as still far short. Around 70 insertion-through-work jobs in the department were put at risk. Local authorities asked residents to stop depositing textiles to avoid fly-tipping around sealed containers.

Collection resumed in late July/August after a state-backed package lifted support toward €223/tonne. The structural €156→€304 gap that caused the suspension was not durably resolved at the time.

Metrics

5
Refashion support at suspension156EUR/tonne
Le Relais stated real treatment cost304EUR/tonne
Refashion emergency offer (rejected)156192EUR/tonne
State-backed package support level (post-rescue)156223EUR/tonne
Jobs at risk in department~70jobs

Funding

Refashion (REP TLC) per-tonne support — disputed as below cost

Lessons learned

  • The suspension was synchronised and national: one operator carrying ~70% of collection can darken a whole department in a single day, leaving local authorities with no independent lever to reopen service.
  • The cause was a quantified per-tonne deficit (€156 paid vs ~€304 cost), making this a funding-calibration failure, not a logistics one — directly illustrating the need for cost-indexed EPR support.
  • The social-insertion jobs attached to collection are first-order stakes: ~70 posts in one department alone were put at risk when the operator withdrew.
  • Reopening required a national political rescue (state-backed package), confirming that territories cannot substitute locally once a national operator withdraws.

Documented Jun 7, 2026

Author AvatarArnaud Gissinger

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